Solar thermal

Solar water heating systems, or solar thermal systems, use energy from the sun to warm water for storage in a hot water cylinder or thermal store. Because the amount of available solar energy varies throughout the year, a solar water heating system won’t provide 100% of the hot water required throughout the year.
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Energy storage

An energy storage system allows you to capture heat or electricity when it is readily available, such as from a renewable energy system, storing it for you to use later.

The most common energy storage systems include electric batteries, hot water cylinders and electric storage heaters.
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Solar PVs

A solar PV panel consists of many cells made from layers of semi-conducting material, most commonly silicon. When light shines on this material, a flow of electricity is created.
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Insulation

Topics covered in this section include walls and roof/loft insulation.

​This page will explore everything you need to know about Insulation to better understand whether it's an energy saving measure that could work for your organisation. Scroll to learn more, or click the button below to download the guide in PDF format. 

If you occupy premises that need to be heated, then improving the insulation levels can help to reduce the heating demand, which in turn will cut your energy bills and emissions. Insulation levels can be improved by adding layers of insulation to existing building elements such as walls, roofs and floors, and by replacing poorly insulated elements such as doors and windows with better insulated alternatives.

Heat loss can also be cut by reducing the amount of unwanted and uncontrolled draughts. Technically speaking this is not insulation, but it often goes hand in hand as part of a building upgrade, and ideally both need to be done to effectively minimise the heating requirement.

 

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Cavity Wall insulation
Cavity wall insulation 

If you occupy a building that is made of brick or concrete blocks, which was built between 1920 and 1980, then there is a good chance that it has cavity walls. This means the external walls were built as two separate walls with a gap or cavity in between. It is often possible to fill this gap with insulation sprayed through holes drilled in the outer wall. The insulation material is usually either mineral wool or polystyrene beads, but polyurethane foam may sometimes be used instead.

Where possible, cavity wall insulation is one of the most cost-effective ways to upgrade the thermal performance of a building.

Internal and external wall insulation 

There are many non-domestic buildings that do not have cavity walls, or where the cavity cannot be filled for technical reasons. These may include older brick buildings, where the walls were built as a single solid brick wall with no cavity, as well as newer buildings of various construction types such as steel frame. If there is no cavity to fill then a wall can be insulated on the inside or the outside.

The cost of insulating internally or externally is often much higher than the cost of cavity wall insulation, but the savings can be greater is there is often less of a limit on how much insulation can be applied.

Internal wall insulation

Internal wall insulation may involve fitting rigid insulation boards to the inside surface of the wall, building an additional stud wall filled in with insulation material such as mineral wool fibre, or sometimes by spraying foam insulation directly onto the inside surface of the wall.

Internal insulation:

•    Is generally cheaper to install than external wall insulation.
•    Will slightly reduce the floor area of any rooms in which it is applied (the thickness of the insulation is typically around 100mm).
•    Can be quite disruptive but can be done room by room.
•    Requires internal fittings to be removed and reattached and may require modifications to window and door frames.
•    Can make it hard to fix heavy items to inside walls – although special fixings are available.
•    Cannot be done before fixing any problems with penetrating or rising damp.

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Insulation
External wall insulation

External wall insulation involves fixing a layer of insulation material to the wall, then covering it with a special type of render (plasterwork) or cladding.
The finish can be adapted to fit in with the general look of the building, or with other nearby buildings.

External insulation:

•    Can be applied without disruption to your organisation.
•    Will not reduce the floor area of your workplace.
•    Will renew the appearance of outer walls.
•    Will improve weatherproofing and sound resistance.
•    Reduces the risk of condensation on internal walls.
•    Best installed at the same time as external refurbishment work to reduce the cost.
•    May need planning permission – check with your local council.
•    Requires good access to the outer walls.
•    Not recommended if the outer walls are structurally unsound and cannot be repaired.

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Insulation being installed in a loft
Roof and loft insulation

A significant portion of heat is lost through the roof in an uninsulated building. Insulating your loft, attic or flat roof is an effective way to reduce heat loss and reduce your heating bills.

Insulation options

If you have an accessible loft space that is easy to access and has no damp or condensation problems, it should be easy to insulate. You can lay rolls of insulation, usually mineral wool, between the joists and then another layer at right angles to achieve the desired thickness – 300mm is usually the recommended depth for mineral wool loft insulation. It is important to make sure the loft space is well ventilated to avoid condensation in the now colder loft, and to make sure any water pipes or tanks that sit above the new insulation are well insulated to avoid freezing. 

If you have a flat roof, or a pitched roof with a room directly beneath, or a loft that cannot easily be accessed, then you will need professional installers to suggest the best solution. This will usually involve applying a layer of rigid foam board insulation, and often requires the replacement of some of the existing internal or external finishing layers.

A detailed moisture risk analysis is usually required so an appropriate vapour control strategy can be applied to minimise the risk of internal condensation.

Indicative costs and savings

Straightforward loft insulation can be one of the cheapest insulation options available, maybe as low as £10 per square metre, plus any costs for increasing ventilation, draught-proofing access hatches etc. All other roof insulation options will be considerably more expensive and will require installers to visit before they can estimate costs for you.

Savings can be significant for a building that is heated regularly throughout the day, but will be very dependent on occupancy, heating system and building geometry.

Windows and doors

The thermal performance of windows and doors cannot be improved by adding a layer of insulation, but you can often make considerable saving by replacing old, single glazed windows and insubstantial external doors with newer, more efficient alternatives. The cost is generally higher than other insulation options, so the expenditure is often not recovered through energy bill savings alone. However, the additional benefits of comfort, improved appearance and reduced maintenance may make the investment worthwhile. If replacement is not allowed due to planning restrictions, or is too costly to justify the expenditure, then secondary glazing may be an alternative. This involves adding an additional layer of glass or polycarbonate to the inside of an existing window, trapping an insulating layer of air without the need to replace the window.

When considering modification or replacement of glazing it is worth remembering that, in an office environment, glare and overheating are often just as significant issues as heat loss. Adding shading, blinds and anti-glare coatings may be of more benefit to the occupants or may be useful additional measures to consider as well as any actions you take to reduce heat loss.

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Installation of windows
Insulation in action
Acharacle Community Centre

Alongside the installation an air source heat pump and renewables, the Acharacle Community Centre installed loft insulation and insulation in one of the largest rooms (lowering the ceiling and adding insulation above the panel boards).

Heat pumps

Heat pumps provide low carbon heat, and cooling, to many types of buildings across the UK.

​This page will explore everything you need to know about Heat Pumps to better understand whether it's an energy saving measure that could work for your organisation. Scroll to learn more, or click the button below to download the guide in PDF format. 

If you’re looking to reduce the carbon emissions associated with heating or cooling your building, then a heat pump could be a good option. However, it’s important to understand the different types of heat pumps, their applications, financial aspects, and ongoing operational and maintenance requirements. This knowledge can help you to decide when to choose heat pumps as an option for heating and ensures that the systems are installed and operated efficiently. 

What is a heat pump?

A heat pump works by taking heat from one location, raising the heat’s temperature, and moving the heat to another spot. A fridge works in a similar way. It takes heat from inside the fridge, moves it to the grill at the back of the fridge, and eventually releases that heat into the kitchen or room where the fridge is placed. When used to heat a building, the heat pump gathers heat from the outdoor air or ground, then brings it indoors to warm up the rooms using either a system of circulating water or air.

A heat pump uses electricity to collect heat energy, raise its temperature and pump that heat indoors, but the heat energy it supplies is much more than the electrical energy needed to power the system.

This makes heat pumps a more energy efficient way to heat a building than a traditional gas or oil boiler. It also produces far fewer carbon emissions than other heating systems.

What kind of heat pump should I get?

There is a wide range of heat pump technology available. An experienced heating, ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) engineer is best able to advise on what is right for your building following a site survey.  However, there are some key questions to answer to help you and your HVAC engineer determine whether a heat pump might be suitable, and if so, which kind.

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Key Questions for you and your HVAC engineer
Air to water heat pumps

An air-to-water heat pump transfers heat from the outside air to water.

This heated water can heat water circulating your building via radiators or underfloor heating. It can also heat water stored in a hot water cylinder for showers and hot water taps. 

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Air to water heat pumps
Air-to-air heat pumps

Air-to-air heat pumps transfer heat from the outside air, warming air that enters your building through a series of fan coil units, or ‘blowers’, or via ducted air.

Air-to-air heat pumps are sometimes referred to as air conditioning. While many people think of air conditioning as a way of cooling buildings, it can also be used for heating.

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Air to air heat pump
Ground source heat pumps

A ground source heat pump (also known as a ground-to-water heat pump) transfers heat from the ground outside your building to water. This heated water can heat water circulating your building through radiators or underfloor heating. It can also heat water stored in a hot water cylinder, ready to use for hot taps and showers.

Digging trenches for a ground loop

If you have the space, then you can have a ground loop system. The ground will need to be suitable for digging and accessible to machinery from a road entrance.

The area will need to avoid trees, as roots will cause problems when digging trenches.

The length of ground loop and trenches depend on the size of your building and the amount of heat you need. 

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Ground source heat pumps
Boreholes

If space is limited, it may be possible to drill vertical boreholes to gather heat. This is usually more expensive than digging trenches and usually needs a specialist ground (thermogeological) survey. The ground is generally warmer the deeper you dig, so these systems can be more efficient than ground loop systems.

Commercial buildings may require more than one borehole. A borehole is drilled only about 20cm wide, but somewhere between 75 and 200 metres deep. The depth of the borehole depends on your heat demand and the underlying geology.

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Borehole
Indicative costs and savings

Installation costs 

The cost of an air source heat pump installation varies depending on:

•    the size of heat pump or heat pumps.
•    the size of the property.
•    whether it’s a newbuild or an existing property.
•    whether you need to change the heat distribution system inside the property.

Because they require digging, ground source heat pumps are typically more expensive to install than air source heat pumps. In addition to the air source heat pump considerations, the cost of a ground source heat pump installation will also vary depending on the access to the ground and whether you choose trenches or a borehole to lay the ground loop.

Savings 

Commercial heat pumps have the potential to be a money-saving solution for businesses and organisations, the extent of the savings depends on the system being replaced and the efficiency achieved by the new system. When compared to traditional electric heating or gas-fired conventional heating systems, heat pumps can provide significant energy and carbon savings. They often outperform standard electric heating systems in terms of cost savings.

While they may also offer savings compared to gas-fired heating systems, this varies based on factors such as the purpose of the system (e.g., heating only, or both heating and cooling) and the relative costs of gas versus electricity your organisation pays. So, it's important to carefully consider these factors when evaluating the potential benefits of installing a heat pump for your building. 

How long does it take to install a heat pump?

Air source pumps are quicker and easier to install than ground source, as ground source pumps require a lot more planning and preparation. Depending on your building, the system chosen and the complexity of the installation, the work can take from a few days to a few weeks to be completed. 

Disruption during installation

Installing a heat pump may cause some disruption to your organisation, depending on how much work needs to be done.

Typical work in a heat pump installation includes:

•    Building a plinth outside for an air source heat pump or pumps to stand on.
•    Digging trenches or boreholes to install the heat pipe for ground source heat pumps.
•    Adding pipes through the wall to where your existing boiler is.
•    Installing or replacing a hot water cylinder.
•    Upgrading radiators, or air ducting, where needed.

While your organisation may decide to keep the building closed during the installation, it’s often possible to stay open as usual while work takes place.

Can I do this by myself?

Heat pumps are not a technology that you can install by yourself. You will need to talk to an installer who will assess your needs and evaluate your building before proposing which system could be right for you. Click here to learn more about this.

Heat Pumps in Action
Duns Swimming Pool

Duns Swimming Pool in Langtongate, Duns installed two air source heat pumps after receiving funding from the Scottish Borders Council. The new heating system and solar panels supply enough power for its heating and reduce the amount of gas needed to heat the pool’s water. Still, gas may be required to top up water temperatures during the winter months.

St Ninian’s RC Parish Church

St Ninian’s RC Parish Church in Dundee replaced its gas boilers with air source heat pumps alongside other improvements, including LED lighting, cavity wall and underfloor insulation. The savings achieved contribute to running costs for the community café that is open to the local community twice a week and where around 20-25 people attend for a free hot meal.

The Roy Bridge School House

The Roy Bridge School House is a volunteer run community facility providing a vital space for local youth groups, lunch clubs, meetings and workshops. A new heating system – an air source heat pump – was installed in the schoolhouse building to ensure that the building was well heated and would meet the required standards for public use. This allowed the space to once again be used all year round. The project aimed to install a new air source heat pump system which could be connected to the building’s existing underfloor heating system.

Findon Hall

Findon Hall replaced the boiler with an air-to-air heat pump and installed solar PV panels on its south facing roof to generate electricity.  These measures were estimated to save the Hall’s management committee £6,628 in energy costs, 45,209 kWhs in energy, and 9.5 tonnes of C02 a year. 

Lighting

Most buildings require artificial lighting to some extent, and it's crucial to ensure that the lighting provided is of good quality and tailored to the specific tasks and occupancy of the building.

​This page will explore everything you need to know about Lighting to better understand whether it's an energy saving measure that could work for your organisation. Scroll to learn more, or click the button below to download the guide in PDF format. 

When assessing the lighting needs of your building, first consider who is using the space and what activities are being carried out within it. Our requirement for lighting varies depending on the tasks being performed. For instance, if your space accommodates customers or visitors, it's likely you'll want to create a well-lit, inviting atmosphere. Whereas walking down a corridor is a relatively simple visual task and doesn’t require as much light. In an office environment, the amount of light needed to view a computer screen differs from that needed to read a printed report.

It’s also important to understand the occupancy patterns of the space and when lighting is required. Is the building only occupied during typical office hours? Is a particular room only in use for a few hours each day? Are people constantly entering and leaving the room within a short period? Both the bulbs themselves, and their control, play significant roles in the building’s lighting energy use.

Designing an efficient lighting system

Once you know how the building is used, you can then review whether there are any improvements that could be made to reduce your lighting bill. Reviewing your bulb choices can be a useful first step. LEDs are the most common energy efficient bulb on offer. 

What is an LED?

Light emitting diodes, or LEDs, are efficient, turn on instantly at full brightness, and are available to fit almost every light fitting in a building. An LED works by producing light from the electricity flowing through the bulb.

Select the right lumen value

With traditional bulbs, we used watts to determine the brightness of a bulb, but watts measure power consumption rather than brightness. Energy-efficient bulbs use fewer watts, so it is best to look at lumen output to determine how bright it’s going to be.

This table compares the wattage of traditional bulbs and approximate equivalent lumen values of LEDs.

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Traditional bulbs versus LED Bulbs

Select the right colour

Low energy light bulbs imitate traditional light bulbs, so if you prefer a particular colour, there should be a close match with the new energy-efficient lighting.
‘Soft white’ or ‘warm white’ bulbs provide a cosy glow that is best for general lighting, while ‘cool white’ or ‘pure white’ are ideal for focussing on tasks, or any area that requires clear vision.

The colour rendering index (CRI) of a bulb shows you how well a bulb will illuminate a chosen colour. Two bulbs can have the same colour, but the bulb with a higher CRI will show colours more accurately than the other.

The bulb’s packaging will indicate the CRI alongside the lumen value. A CRI of 80 or more is appropriate for many tasks.

What are the benefits of upgrading to LED?

If there are any incandescent or halogen bulbs in your building, upgrading them to LED can reduce your electricity consumption and your electricity bill. In addition: 

•    They last longer than conventional light bulbs reducing replacement costs. 
•    LEDs produce very little waste heat compared to conventional sources, reducing the need for additional cooling on warm days.

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Lighting
Indicative costs and savings

Potential savings switching traditional or halogen bulbs for LEDs

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Switching incandescent bulbs to LEDs
Fluorescent lighting

Many office and work environments are lit by fluorescent tubes.  These vary in efficiency, with modern thin tubes (T5s) being the most efficient and the older, thicker tubes being the least efficient. All fluorescent tubes are more efficient than traditional incandescent bulbs, but even the most efficient tubes are not as efficient LEDs. Compact fluorescent bulbs – designed to fit into domestic style fittings – are not quite as efficient as the best straight tubes.

Modern fluorescent tubes are often fitted in mounts with a reflector to direct more light in the desired direction, and this will improve overall system efficiency. Some also have diffusers over the bulbs, which can improve the look and feel but will tend to reduce efficiency, especially if the diffuser isn’t kept clean.

Replacing a fluorescent lighting system with an LED lighting arrangement can be relatively expensive as you will often need to change the fittings, not just the tubes.

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Fluorescent lighting in an office
Controlling lighting

Understanding when and how each area of the building is used will help determine the type of controls needed.

For instance, spaces with varying occupancy throughout the day may benefit from occupancy sensors that automatically adjust lighting levels based on movement detection, reducing energy waste during periods of low activity.

You should also consider the flexibility and ease of use of the lighting controls, especially if you need other people to interact with them. Intuitive controls allow occupants to adjust lighting according to their preferences and tasks.

Advanced controls like daylight sensors can optimise energy savings by automatically dimming or switching off artificial lights in response to available natural light, further reducing energy consumption while maintaining comfortable lighting levels.

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Lighting controls
What else can I do to reduce my lighting bill?

•    Use natural daylight as much as possible. 
•    Always turn lights off when leaving a room. The quickest way to start saving is just remembering to turn lights off when you don’t need them. 
•    Arrange light switches so it is easy to turn them off, for example, place switches for rooms at the door.
•    Label light switches that can be turned off by all staff, especially in infrequently occupied areas such as meeting rooms, storerooms and bathrooms, and in rooms with multiple switches in one place.
•    Use sensors or timers on external lights, so they are only on when they need to be.
•    Consider using transparent shades or fittings, as a dark lampshade can absorb some of the light a bulb emits.
•    Ensure that you regularly clean any lamp shades or fittings to increase the impact of the light.
•    Make sure furniture is not blocking light sources. 
•    Consider installing lighting controls such as movement sensors or time clocks to ensure that the right light is provided in the right place and at the right time and that you reduce electricity use. According to the Carbon Trust, lighting controls can make huge reductions in energy use, usually between 30% and 50% in a typical office environment. 

Can I do this myself?

Yes! Switching out existing halogen or incandescent bulbs to LEDs is something that you can do by yourself, unless there are difficulties in access or fittings need changing as well. 

For bigger jobs though, such as switching from tube lighting to LEDs or installing lighting controls, you will need to talk to an electrician who will assess your needs and evaluate your building before proposing which system could be right for you. Click here to learn more about this. (link to installers section)
 

Lighting in Action
Elgin Tennis Club

Elgin Tennis Club installed modern, energy-saving floodlights at its Cooper Park site after receiving £18,000 from the Scottish Government’s interest-free SME loan with cashback. The site had 18 500w and 750w lights that were used between 350 and 400 hours each year. Only 11 LED improved the experience for players and provided savings to the 150-member club of around £1,000 a year.

Inch Park Community Sports Club

Inch Park Community Sports Club received £8,280 to install solar PV and upgrade its lighting units to LED lighting throughout. The aim of the project was to lower energy use and running costs of the facility so that it could offer reduced hire rates for community groups. Lessons learned include ensuring that contractors and suppliers are aware of, and agree to work to, significant dates including start and completion dates and ideally have these written into the contract.

Nairn Community and Arts Centre

Nairn Community and Arts Centre in Moray upgraded the building’s internal and external lighting, including the theatre’s lighting grid, to energy efficient LEDs expected to reduce the centre’s electricity usage by 75%.

Conventional Heating

In this section, we will talk about condensing boilers, electric heating and how to improve your central heating systems. 

​This page will explore everything you need to know about Conventional Heating to better understand whether it's an energy saving measure that could work for your organisation. Scroll to learn more, or click the button below to download the full guide in PDF format. 

Gas Boilers

Many buildings are heated by one or more gas boilers, often distributing heat throughout the building via a system of radiators much like a domestic central heating system. Some may use other distribution systems such as warm air distribution, usually as part of a ventilation system (which may also include cooling), or underfloor heating.

Smaller buildings may have a single package boiler, essentially a domestic boiler, where the burner, heat exchanger, flue and other elements are all supplied as a single unit or package. Larger buildings may have a bank of multiple package boilers, or they may have one or more commercial boilers, where the boiler itself, the burner, the flue, and the condensing economiser are all supplied as separate elements and fitted together on site.

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Conventional heating boiler
Hot water supply

If you have a gas boiler for heating then this will often also be providing hot water for taps, showers etc. Generally, the hot water will come from a separate hot water cylinder that is heated by a coil heat exchanger fed from the boiler. If you have a package boiler then this could sometimes be a combination boiler, or combi, in which case the hot water will come straight from the boiler as and when required, with no need for a hot water cylinder.

If you do have a hot water cylinder, then it is important that this is well insulated to avoid wasting energy as the water cools down. Insulation jackets can be applied to existing hot water tanks but often the best performance will be achieved by fitting a new pre-insulated tank. If a tank already has some insulation, then you could still save more by adding further insulation. We recommend at least 80mm of fibreglass insulation jacket or 50mm of pre-sprayed polyurethane foam.

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Conventional heating boiler
Oil and Liquefied Petroleum Gas (LPG) boilers

Oil and LPG boilers operate in the same way as gas boilers, with a similar set of options. The main differences are that the fuel needs to be stored on site, with deliveries arranged when necessary, and the fuel is typically more expensive than gas. Oil is also a significantly higher carbon fuel than mains gas and so leads to a higher carbon footprint than an equivalent gas heating system. 

Oil and LPG boilers are generally only found in buildings where there is no nearby mains gas supply.

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Woman adjusting oil boiler
Electric boilers

These are not common in the UK due to the big price difference between electricity and other heating fuels. Where they do exist, the hot water produced by the boiler is usually stored in an accumulator tank – a large hot water cylinder used for space heating rather than for hot water supply. This means the boiler can be operated with a variable electricity tariff, heating the accumulator during cheaper off-peak times of day.

This will help to keep operating costs down but is unlikely to make this an attractive option for space heating.

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Electric boiler
Direct electric heating

There are a number of technologies that use electricity to heat a room directly, either by heating the air in the room or by radiating energy into the room, or a mixture of both. These include... 

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Direct electric heating
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Heating ventilation and air conditioning on roof
Heating, ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC)

Many office buildings have a single HVAC system which provides all the ventilation, space heating and cooling needs. Air is distributed throughout the building usually in large metal ducting suspended from the ceiling or concealed within it.

The air is heated centrally, often by a commercial gas boiler, but other technologies are also common. If cooling is included then there will be a chiller unit, which is a heat pump extracting heat from the ventilation air and expelling that heat to the outside air. Most heat pumps are reversible which means the same unit could be used to provide heating in the winter as well as cooling in the summer - learn more about heat pumps.

Improvements to heating systems

Given the range of possible heating technologies, it is difficult to generalise about potential energy improvements. Most technologies will have more efficient and less efficient models, but it is important to consider all the technical options, including switching to a different fuel, when considering whether to invest in new equipment. 

It is also important to consider changes to your heating control strategy to ensure you only heat the spaces you need to heat, to the level you need to the heat them, and at the times you need to heat them. This can range from providing clear instructions to staff about how to use the heating where they work, to investing in new heating controls or even a Building Energy Management System to optimise use of whatever heating system you have. 
 

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Hand adjusting a heat temperature gauge
Indicative costs and savings

Costs for installing new systems vary with size and complexity, as well as with technology. A replacement package gas boiler, where no additional pipework or modifications are required, will cost around £3,500. Larger commercial boilers will cost more, depending on size, complexity and whether all the elements of the system need to be replaced.

Controls for a heating system start at around £350 for a programmer unit for a single heating zone.

Modern high heat retention storage heaters cost around £900 per heater, and fixed standard electric heaters around £400 per heater, including installation.
You will need to get multiple quotes for any heating system upgrade you are considering to get a bespoke cost for your situation. 

You should also ask your installers to estimate likely running costs for any systems they are proposing. While every installer has an incentive to make their proposed solution appear attractive, comparing one supplier’s estimate with another can help to guide you on which options are likely to save you the most in running costs.

How long does it take to install a commercial boiler?

A new commercial boiler can take a few days to be installed. This will depend on the size of the system, how big your building is, the number of radiators and how many installers will handle the job. 

Disruption during the installation

If you are thinking of having a new system installed, then the summer months are usually the best time to have it installed because it’s when you rely on your boiler the least.

During the fitting of pipework and radiations, the whole property will need to be accessed and you will have no access to heating or hot water.

Can I do this by myself?

Conventional heating technologies are not systems that you can install by yourself. You will need to talk to an installer who will assess your needs and evaluate your building before proposing which system could be right for you. Click here to learn more about this.

Conventional Heating in Action
University College London

University College London has replaced boilers with more efficient models and connected its room booking system with the heating control system to ensure rooms are only heated when they are in use.

Solar thermal

Solar water heating systems, or solar thermal systems, use energy from the sun to warm water for storage in a hot water cylinder or thermal store. Because the amount of available solar energy varies throughout the year, a solar water heating system won’t provide 100% of the hot water required throughout the year.

A separate system, usually your existing boiler or other water heating system, is used to make up the difference.

​This page will explore everything you need to know about Solar thermal to better understand whether it's an energy saving measure that could work for your organisation. Scroll to learn more, or click the button below to download the guide in PDF format. 

How do solar hot water heating systems work?

Solar water heating systems use panels or tubes, called solar collectors, to gather solar energy. The solar collectors convert the energy in sunlight into heat, which is transferred to liquid made up of water and glycol. This liquid is pumped round a circuit, which passes through the hot water cylinder.

There are three types of solar water heating collectors:

1.    Evacuated tubes – a bank of glass tubes mounted on the roof tiles. 
2.    Flat plate collectors – fixed on the roof tiles or integrated into the roof.
3.    Low temperature collectors such as solar matting – often fitted directly on the ground to provide heat for swimming pools.

What are the benefits of solar water heating?

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Benefits of solar water heating

Is solar water heating right for your building?

To tell if solar water heating is right for you, there are a few key questions to consider:

Do you have a sunny place to put solar panels?

Solar hot water collectors are typically placed on south facing roofs, or somewhere between east to west (but not north facing). 

Panels can be mounted on a frame on the ground or on a flat roof, though this will increase the cost. Solar water heating collectors can benefit from being mounted at a steeper angle than solar PV panels because they often over-produce in summer so can be optimised for winter performance without sacrificing annual output. This means they can be attached to walls rather than roofs, though usually on a frame to tilt them upwards slightly. 

The amount of space you need depends on the amount of hot water you use. For a domestic scale system you might need around five square metres that receive direct sunlight for the main part of the day.

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Solar panels on south facing roof

 

Do you have space for a larger hot water cylinder?

Energy is transferred from the sun to the water-glycol fluid used to heat water stored in a hot water cylinder. Inside the hot water cylinder, a base coil is connected to the solar collectors.

Typically for small installations, one cylinder is used, with either an immersion heater or another coil connected to your boiler, near the top of the cylinder.  

This top immersion heater or coil will heat the water to a higher temperature when needed. If a dedicated solar hot water cylinder is not already installed, then you will usually need to replace the existing cylinder.

Instead of a single hot water cylinder with two coils, some installations use a dedicated cylinder with a solar heating coil in addition to the existing cylinder.

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Solar thermal close up including image of storage battery
Is your current boiler compatible with solar water heating? Will you need planning permission?

Conventional boilers and hot water cylinder systems are often compatible with solar water heating. However, if you have a combi boiler, this will mean a solar hot water cylinder must be added to the system, so you’ll need to consider where this might be located in your building.

Most small-scale solar water heating systems do not require planning permission. However, exceptions apply, and you should check with your local planning office.

If your building is a listed building, or in a conservation area or national park, you may have more restrictions.

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Conventional heating boiler
How can your organisation make the most of solar water heating?

There are a few things you need to consider to get the most out of your solar water heating system. 

It’s important to make sure that your back-up heating system is set up to come on at the right time. Before you installed the solar panels, your boiler or immersion heater was probably set to give you a full tank of hot water in the morning.

If you leave it like this, your system will always start the day with a hot tank and there’ll be no water for the solar panels to heat during the day.

Your installer should advise you on how to set your hot water controls to get the most out of your new system, whatever time of day you use hot water.

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Man adjusting water system settings
Indicative costs and savings
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Solar thermal - image of panel with storage container on roof
Installation costs

The cost of installing a typical domestic-scale solar water heating system is around £6,000. Costs will depend on the type of solar water heating collectors you will choose, as well as the size of the system. While larger systems are more expensive the cost is unlikely to increase proportionately – a system that is twice the size may not cost twice as much.

Retrofitting can be more expensive due to the additional complexity of installation. However, many solar thermal systems can be integrated into existing gas-boiler systems.

Savings

Solar hot water heating systems make more financial sense in commercial buildings when there is sufficiently high demand for hot water, such as in catering or swimming pools. Generally, solar hot water is more economical in larger systems. Payback periods can be long but the lifetime of the equipment can be even longer.

It is often worth considering whether a solar PV system would be more effective than a solar water heating system, even if the solar electricity were used primarily to heat the  water. The relative financial performance of the two technologies will have to be considered on a site by site basis and you should ask multiple installers for advice if you are unsure.

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Solar thermal atop a building with a swimming pool beneath
How long does it take to install commercial solar thermal systems?

For smaller systems, the installation can take only a few days. Bigger and more complicated installations can take longer than that. 

Disruption during the installation

During installation there is likely to be a period when you do not have hot water, and a (usually) much shorter time when the water supply is disconnected completely.

Can I do this by myself?

Energy storage systems are not a technology that you can install by yourself. You will need to talk to an installer who will assess your needs and evaluate your building before proposing which system could be right for you. Click here to learn more about this.

Solar Thermal in Action
ISKCON Scotland

ISKCON Scotland As part of a significant decarbonisation ISKCON Scotland installed solar thermal panels to supply hot water to a converted old barn used for community functions.